Briefly from Botswana

I saw nothing of Gaborone, Botswana except a nice resort and a “diamond park.” The hotel was complete with palm trees and monkeys so that checked a few boxes. From my room I could see the plains stretching as far as the eye could see with bushes, brush and rolling hills under a brilliant blue sky, which recalled for me Kenya's Rift Valley.

The “diamond park” piqued my interest. The diamonds are trucked down from mines across the country to Gaborone. They close the streets to let the armored vehicles pass. They are brought to a giant office park where each diamond company has a massive warehouse that processes and polishes the gems. It’s right next to the airport. My crazy young taxi driver, Jason, said “we don’t see diamonds in Botswana.” Hopefully the Kimberly process ensures profits for the country. Based on driving through the city, I think it does to some extent.

As monkeys and peacocks traipse the grounds of the hotel, over 200 Africans from across the continent arrived to discuss LGBTI rights. It is hard to find a braver, more inspiring group. Truly. Imagine being gay in Africa. There could not be a harder life on this Earth.

The issues discussed ranged from violence and discrimination to criminalization to HIV to gender fluid identities and intersectionality. It was nuanced and pained and progressive and, above all else, etched with extraordinary resilience.

Cleopatra “Cleo” is a transwoman from Uganda and was resplendent during traditional dress night. She wore a perfectly tailored Katanga dress of gold and red. When 200 people sang happy birthday to Aurelie, a Lesbian woman from Cameroon, she broke down in tears. Moved by the tribute, sure, but mostly by the overwhelming expression of love and support she has likely never known in her life.

During our gala evening, we sat outside in the freezing cold. While I can hardly say I know Botswana, I can confirm from the direct experience of freezing my tuckus off that it has a desert climate. 70s during the day and low 40s by night.

Roll call during the gala announced the groups from each country. It was a raucous and frenzied joy with dancing and songs from every nation that crescendo-ed with each call. We then reached the zenith and one of the most amazing moments of my life. As roll call ended, a man in back shouted, “WAKANDA FOREVER” and all of us shouted back, “WAKANDA FOREVER” while crossing our arms, hooting and beating our chests.