Thursday, December 8, 2016
Tis the season in Sri Lanka
For the first time in a while I hesitate to blog about a place, because I really haven't seen much of Colombo and nothing of the rest of the country. I'll save my more intense attempt at understanding this culture for my trip report. But I guess it's important to capture the experience nonetheless.
I was immediately disoriented upon arrival at baggage claim, not by being at a loss in a new foreign land, but instead by the jarring sense from hearing "Deck the halls" and subsequent Christmas carols being piped throughout the Colombo Arrivals hall. Something so familiar in a completely unknown place brought a little smirk to my face...an unexpected chink in my "just landed by myself in a foreign airport" armor.
It turns out Colombo is obsessed with Christmas. On my pillow in my very nice room in the very nice colonial hotel, Galle Face Hotel, was an invitation to tonight's annual Christmas tree lighting celebration. Decorations are everywhere throughout the city. Christmas is truly post-Christian. (A blog for another time)
I wonder if the crows will come to the lighting. I thought I was about to be shot this morning when I looked up from my passion fruit yogurt cup to spot the crow-wallah aiming his slingshot in what could not be mistaken for dead center aim of my forehead. It turned out that there was a crow perched behind me waiting for his moment to swoop in and steal my toast. The crow-wallah's sole job is to chase crows at breakfast, running the considerable length of the veranda and pushing them out toward the sea. It is hilarious and completely undignified. He does do it with a smile on his face, reassuring guests with his countenance that he knows that his job, while clearly vital, is completely ridiculous.
Today I circled the city several times to attend various meetings, passing temples and getting stuck in traffic jams frequently. My favorite one of these trips was of course when I hailed my own private tuk tuk. I didn't even care that he overcharged me($1.50 instead of $1) I felt like Anna from the King and I, except with dirty bus exhaust blowing in my face from manic buses narrowly missing me.
Of course I love all of this. Of being in "the field," which isn't really the field, but it's travel and work and familiar, even in a new place.
My colleague Sarah is probably one of the nicest people I have met at IFES and was based in HQ so I know her well enough. She is fantastic and great on gender, but has been overwhelmed by work and by the fact that her husband had to return to the US. Even though he is a nurse, he could not get work here. I try my hardest not to compare Sri Lanka to Uganda too much, but this fact did floor me. I can't imagine him being turned away even for 2 seconds if he was anywhere in Africa. Big difference.
Anyway to help Sarah navigate some of the challenges and pitfalls of life in the field was also great. It is a reminder of the skills I gained while away and the important contribution they have made to who I am and the strength that I carry as a person.
Early Saturday morning I make the ridiculously long journey home, starting out on a 3:25am flight. It's best to get this blog in now before jet lag and travel consume me. I have missed my baby boy so much (although I got to skype babysit him a few times). I know he and Hayden have managed well and we had another great back-up visit from his grandparents 😉😘
But it's time to spend QT with my family. Our next trip will be an adventure together to Mexico, as it should be.
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I remember having the same feelings about seeing Christmas all around me in Dubai - an Arab country in the Middle East! It was a disorienting feeling...as if this should not be happening...and no sense that it was connected to religious belief...but more for commercial purposes!
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