Although I’ve been largely food adverse over the last couple
of months, my ability to eat more than peanut butter has improved since leaving
for Senegal. The nausea unfortunately remains, but at least I can get some food
in me.
It’s no secret that Francophone West Africa kicks Anglophile
anywhere Africa's butt in the food department. I have been impressed that the tiny
little Goree Island I’m staying on, off the coast of Dakar in Senegal, holds its
culinary own. A boulangerie exists in what would be a mobile phone airtime
kiosk in Uganda. Just like in Paris, the Senegalese Islanders line up in the morning and
walk away with fresh baguette tucked under their arms. For each meal I’ve had,
a caramelized onion sauce has accompanied the main course of chicken or fish or
shrimp. With the assistance of the Mali Chief of Party I reversed engineered
it: onions reduced in chicken broth with lime and mustard. Delicious and
simple.
Coffee breaks in Uganda consist of lumps of cake, not unlike
sweetened concrete. Swallowing the cake is tantamount to scrapping putty from
an old pipe, and then it sinks into your stomach like lead. Here in Senegal at
the Goree Institute, we were served onion tarts and Petit Fours. They were
exquisite.
The African staple, cassava, is served countless ways here
and dare I say some of them are tasty. For lunch we were given fermented
cassava that had the look and consistency of cous cous with a taste not unlike
sourdough bread. Topped with the caramelized onion sauce, it was delish.
WOW! Dare I suggest you need to stay on in Senegal just to keep eating. You are actually writing about food again...that HAS to be a positive sign, my dear!
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